Most modern menswear pieces are simply repurposed military apparel. That’s not an exaggeration—this is includes bomber jackets, parkas, peacoat, chinos, and (surprise), the short-sleeve shirt. While all these pieces were built for diverse terrain, weather, and environments, the short-sleeve button down (or ‘SSBD’ for those in the know) emerged at a time when men’s style was slowly becoming more casual and practical.
Originally made of cotton fabric with an arm opening above the elbow, the shirt became a favourite in lieu of traditional long-sleeve shirts, debuting in the early 1900s by the U.S. Navy as a part of their uniform for hot weather. From there, the shirt gained popularity quickly.
In the 1920s, tennis players like René Lacoste were opting for short-sleeves on the court, providing easier movement while playing. Artists like Picasso, who wore these shirts to avoid getting his sleeves dirty while working, were also early adopters.
By the 1960s and 70s, the SSBD was embraced across the workforce, from NASA engineers who opted for lightness and practicality while working in the Florida humidity, to farmers, construction workers, and manufacturing employees who wore these pieces on the job. As always, first came utility, and next came fashion.
Wearing short-sleeves made ripples in Hollywood too, where many stars were known to wear them on screen with khaki pants or shorts, helping make them a classic American summer staple. Today, the short-sleeve shirt remains a staple in menswear, and there are many ways to layer and style it. Let’s unpack how we can do it.
3 ways to style short-sleeves
Before we tackle how to wear a short-sleeve shirt, it’s important to consider your two S’s: ‘setting’ and ‘style.’ Are you going to the office, grabbing lunch, or sitting on a beach? The setting is important, because it informs how you should style the shirt and offers unique opportunities to mix-and-match differently.
The Commuter
If you’re going to the office, consider layering your SSBD with lightweight outerwear, like a chore coat, denim jacket, or a soft-shoulder blazer. This creates a nice balance as you shift environments.
Hot outside? Carry your jacket while walking, especially commuting by train or bike. AC cranking inside? Throw the jacket on while you’re sitting in a meeting or at your desk. It’s understated, but professional. The key here is that you can layer freely without worry of sweating in a jacket outside. And if you do, you can cool down more quickly.
If you go for a cotton button-down, consider pairing with looser fit chino or trouser, something that tapers at the ankles, rather than form-fitting tight pants. If you want to go with shorts, avoid wearing anything too short or long—7” inseam shorts are typically a good bet.
The Weekend Warrior
If the setting is more casual, go for a camp collar shirt. Whether it’s cotton, linen or a blend of both, these are great breathable options to work with when you’re on the go. Pair it with some chinos and huarache sandals, and you’re golden.
Personally, camp collars are my jam; they’re fantastic in warm weather, and I like them for two reasons:
The collar shape signals that you’re ready to kick back a few cold ones while you enjoy some Vitamin D
The silhouette is often a bit wider, which creates a carefree, relaxed aesthetic.
If that’s not your thing, a polo shirt slots in perfectly, and you can’t go wrong with hemp or supima. Whichever combo you choose, it’s good for the last minute hardware store run, summer grill nights, cornhole competitions, or watching your favourite team lose.
The “Notifications Set To Off”
This is where we can have more fun. If you’re headed to the beach or visiting a resort, bold is the only way to go. Sit under a cabana with your piña colada flexing in a French terry with cacti on it. Or flowers. Or pineapples. Or fish. Or some crazy pattern. Nothing is off the table.
OAS shirts are the king of funk and they absolutely rule when to comes to spring and summer collections. The resort shirt is a signal for “easy,” so do just that and keep your pairings easy. Rock your shirt with linen pants, swim trunks, or shorter shorts.
The short-sleeve shirt has a rich history; it’s evolved from being a utility piece in the military to a menswear staple. And contrary to the olden days, now you’ve got more styles, fabrics, and fits to choose from. So, as you show some skin this summer, consider the setting and style you are going for. And remember that the key is to lighten up, have fun, and experiment with different combinations to find what works for you.